Sunday, September 15, 2013

Taiwan

Back in July I was fortunate enough to able to travel to Taiwan for 10 days. The first part of the trip was solo and full of outdoors activities. For the second part I was joined by my friend Lisa who I know from Korea. Together we explored the city of Taipei. Taiwan is an amazingly friendly, lovely country and is currently battling Vietnam for my favorite Asian country. 

Hualien


The second swimming hole
Upon arriving in Taiwan, I immediately headed south to Hualien by train. I stayed at a wonderfully charming hostel where I met some fantastic people; two local expats from South Africa and 3 boys all from different German speaking countries.After a night of drinking and games at the hostel, the boys and I had an amazing adventure the next day.
 
Behind a waterfall
In the afternoon we set out from the hostel to rent bicycles only to find out that because of the timing it was better and less expensive to rent motorbikes. After a few mishaps and misdirection, we finally got on out way. Our destination was a nature reserve just outside if town where a local said there was a swimming hole. We found the overcrowded 'swimming hole' with knee high water and were a bit disappointed. We tried to go further into the park but were told we needed a permit.

So off we went to find the police station to get the permit. We wound up at the wrong one, but there was a man there nice enough to lead us to the correct one. However, when we got there we were denied the permit. My guess is that we needed a local emergency contact. Just when we thought our adventure was doomed, we were saved by an English speaking local who offered to take us as guests on his permit. Delighted, we agreed.

Jumping at the final swimming hole
Not only did Jimmy get us into the park, he became our unofficial guide. The first stop was a much nicer swimming hole. Then he asked if we wanted to go river tracing. River tracing is essentially hiking up a river as opposed to a trail. So up we went. We jumped from rock to rock, we climbed up robes, we swam behind waterfalls, and finally we got to the ultimate swimming hole complete with rocks to jump off of. It was a most glorious day.



So glorious, in fact, that we went back to the second swimming pool that evening with a large group of people from the hostel.

Taroko Gorge

Hiking in Taroko Gorge was challenging but rewarding. The first trail I did was Baiyan Waterfall trail. Along the way I saw two monkeys helping each other get food from a tree. I wasn't quite sure whether or not they were dangerous so I just hung back and watched them for awhile. Eventually, I walked past them and they scurried up the mountain. The trail went through several dark tunnels and of course I wasn't prepared with a light so I just went slowly.


Much to my dismay, to get to the viewing deck for the waterfall I had to cross this very scary suspension bridge. With all the times I've faced my fear you'd think I'd have gotten over it, but no. 

The waterfall was two-tiered and very tall, but not super powerful.Still, it was a lovely sight. 

The trail ended with a a cave called Water Curtain. Imagine a natural tunnel with water cascading from the ceiling, almost like a shower. 

The next trail I did was a bit more challenging but rather unexciting. I ran into Cory who I had met earlier and he informed me that it was super safe to hitchhike while in the park (and in Taiwan in general). So after lunch, since I missed the bus, I decided to give it a go. I was picked up within minutes and dropped off at the trail head for Swallow Grotto. Even though this trail was a path along the side of the road it was beautiful. The river ran through the middle of the tall pot hole riddled marble gorge. 

The next day I set my goal a little too high. I was planning on taking the Dekalan to the Dali to the Shakadang trail. I even went so far as to get a permit. But alas the Dekalan defeated me. At first I was surprised that I was the only hiker considering the trail head's proximity to the visitors center. Then, I realized why. It was 300 meters straight up stairs and it was grueling. When I reached the top I was beat and since I didn't know how long or hard the Dali trail was going to be, I wimped out and went back down. I took the bus to the Shakadong trail which was a delightfully easy trail that followed the river.

The before shot

Taipei 

Seeing Lisa for the first time in year was great. We picked up right where we left off and had an amazing time together. We met up in the afternoon on Saturday and explored our immediate area which included 228 Peace Park. Then we gussied up for the evening and went in search of food and night life. And night life we found. After a few bars we settled into Carnegie's which was a big open bar with wooden furniture and an almost American feel to it.

Yes, that is me dancing on the bar

We were tempted to relocate as we were surround by old men with young Taiwanese women and even more so when the go-go dancers came out. However, a few shots of tequila can do amazing things. For example, getting Lisa and I to dance on the bar. It was an epic evening.  



The next morning, or rather afternoon, we decided to take the gondola out to the Maokong Teahouse district. It was an amazingly lazy way to spend a hungover Sunday. The gondola ride was about 20-30 minutes and took us over greenery, trees, mountains, and city lights in the distance. After wandering around and taking in the sights we settled at one of the tea houses taking in the scenery and chatting. 



That night we went to Longshan Temple and all the night markets around it. We were told that trying the stinky tofu was a must and that it didn't taste as bad as it smelled. That was a flat-out lie! It was so gross!
 



Due to our high maturity level, Lisa and I decided to have lunch the following day at the Modern Toilet Restaurant. It was exactly what you would expect of a toilet themed restaurant. All the tables were glass covered sinks or bathtubs and the seats were western toilets. Drinks were served in urinals, food in western toilets or squatters. I found it very amusing. 

That night and the next night we spent hours in the Shilin Night Market. It seemed to go on forever. The food was so good and so cheap. They had every type of meat on a stick, fried everything, sandwiches, omelettes, and best of all fresh juice. I tried carrot and apple, starfruit and banana, and my personal favorite dragon fruit. The market was also souvenir heaven and I was able to buy everything I needed in one place. Not to mention all the games you could play. 




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