Thursday, January 24, 2013

Vietnam



Ho Chi Minh and the South

Ho Chi Minh

The first stop in Vietnam was Ho Chi Minh otherwise known as Saigon. The city was a sensory overload of colors, vendors, and above all else-- motorbikes. Children as young as four came up to me to try and sell me bracelets and there was a tour company on every corner advertising the lowest rates. Despite all the action, Ho Chi Minh had a surprisingly relaxing effect on me---this could have just been the result of finally being on vacation (the last 2 weeks in Korea were VERY busy) or perhaps the gorgeous weather. Weather that persisted the entire trip even though it was the 'rainy season'.
 For some reason I had it in my head that it was going to be in the sixties at the hottest. Of course I realized my mistake after I checked the weather, but also after I had sent all my summer wear back to the States. So my first stop in Ho Chi Minh was the famous Ben Thanh Market. I hadn't been in the market for a full minute before a young vendor took my hand and pulled me into her stall. It took me awhile to convince her that I was looking for shorts and not the t-shirts that she was selling. I finally escaped....to the next stall, but at least they had shorts. Later on I found a booth with a humorous young lady who eventually found a pair of denim shorts for me. They were a bit too big so she brought me to a tailor who fixed them on the spot. I braved the market again when he was finished to find some cheap lunch. And cheap lunch I found. Soda, rice, chicken, and salad for $2. I finished the day with a $1 pedicure and $1 sandwich. 

Mekong Delta

The next day I took a tour of the Mekong Delta and met some pretty cool fellow travelers. Our tour guide, Den, was very good and told us all about the strange food the Vietnamese eat. Including, crickets. scorpions, turtle, and mice. They also eat poisonous snake. The swallow the gall bladder and heart whole, then drain the blood into red wine and cook the rest. Apparently it's very good for your hair, eyes, and spine. I noticed during the bus ride down to Mekong Delta that all the rest stops have hammocks. What a lovely idea. 
Mekong Delta Floating Market

The produce on the bamboo stick serves to advertise the goods on board.

Captain for the boat ride on the Mekong River

Mekong River Dwellings

She's making rice paper.

They're making coconut candy.

We had tea at the honey farm complete with bees.

Row, row, row our boat!

Along the way. 

Lunch. Elephant ear fish. 

Dessert. Rambutan fruit. 

Fellow travelers and I enjoying a street side feast and beer for under $5.

Da Nang and Central

Da Nang



Da Nang is one of the most relaxing and calming environments I've ever been to. I spent a day or two simply relaxing by the beach at Temple Spa. Relaxing? Unheard of in my travels. Not to mention an hour long massage, manicure, and pedicure for $8. Heavenly.

Angie met me at the airport and took me back to her house, suitcase and all, on her motorbike. There Piotr was waiting and our reunion began. From delicious food to hiking to motorbike trips and good company it was one of the best vacations ever.





The Vietnamese are very community centered and it was an everyday occurrence for the neighborhood kids (and sometimes the adults) to just stop by and walk right into Piotr and Angie's house. They would open drawers and look through stacks of paper, but mostly they just wanted to play. Piotr is especially great with the kids and we spent an evening spinning them around in chairs and having a camera war. 


View from the top of Marble Mountain

After having coffee with Lee at the neighborhood corner cafe, I managed to pull myself away from the beach for a day and spent it hiking Marble Mountain. The mountain was riddled with caves, Buddha statues, altars, and temples.




Vietnamese food is scrumptious! I never knew how truly delightful it is. Light, healthy, fresh, and cheap. Five course dinners and beers served over ice for $5.

Flight of shots at Luna Pub



The most delicious clams


















Motorbike Ride


On the weekend, Angie, Piotr, some of their friends, and I went on a motorbike trip to the Mui Son Ruins. The ride was gorgeous. As a passenger I was able to take in the scenic beauty of the landscape--a mixture of rice paddies, jungle, and local wildlife like water buffalo.


First pit stop. Beer. 



Second pit stop. Beauty.




















Mui Son 


Built by the Cham people and destroyed by the US during the Vietnam War. We spent several hours walking among the ruins.








 




 

Hoi An

Hoi An is a small touristic town about 40 miles north of Da Nang. It's quiet and quaint and I fell in love with it. Not only are the people super friendly, but it's more laid back than Ho Chi Minh or even Da Nang. We went to Ann Bahn, the beach area, for a wonderful dinner under grass thatched roofs sitting on loungers in an open air setting with palm trees all around. 

We also walked around the old town area where we stopped at a local restaurant for a delicious snack and fresh beer for 25 cents a pint. 

Tuna Tartar. Yum.

Just as appetizing? 

Thursday, December 13, 2012

Halloween

In spite of the fact that I continue to live in countries that don't celebrate my favorite holiday, I always find a way to bring Halloween with me where ever I go. Korea was no exception.

As usual I had two different costumes, one for school...

And one for fun...
 
 

Chuseok

Chuseok is a Korean holiday most similar to Thanksgiving. A holiday when Koreans eat traditional food with their families. This year it fell in the beginning of October giving me a 5 day weekend. This what I did.

Part 1: Writer's Workshop




 
I went to a writer's workshop in the mountain side of Korea with my friends Anjee and Joni. As some of you know, I've been working on a young adult fantasy book for a few years. I thought this workshop would motivate me to write more. It did...a bit. Over the weekend, we did a few different writing activities, cooked food together, went hiking, and consumed lots of alcohol. I had a really good time and managed to write a lengthy outline for my book. Maybe I'll finish it someday.

Part 2: Suwon

After the writer's workshop I went to visit my friend Matt who lives in Suwon. I met Matt through Jordan 10 years ago when I moved to North Carolina. Jordan and Matt have kept in touch over the years and before I moved to Korea he was a wealth of help, answering all of my questions in detail. The first night we ate at a delicious duck restaurant with some of his friends. The next morning we hiked up to the top of the Suwon fortress and all around the grounds. Before taking the train home Matt took me to a yummy Indian restaurant.
 

Thursday, October 11, 2012

Oktoberfest

 
          Anjee, Lisa, and I headed up to Seoul for Korea's version of Oktoberfest. The event was held at a convention center at a very posh hotel. After galavanting around Seoul we dressed to impress and went to the event around 6:00. We gorged ourselves on delicious German fare including sausages, potato salad, roast beef, and much, much more. Oh, how I loved it.
          Lisa brought back four beers, as much as she could carry. Then on my way back from the restroom I saw that one of the guys from our table was at the beginning of the line for beer. I decided to go ahead and get four more as the line was growing. Meanwhile, Anjee had succeeded in convincing one of the workers to bring us two pitchers. And Lisa bought us a shot each. This resulted in the picture above.
          Anjee competed and lost the arm wrestling competition. I was passed over for the hammer competition. But Lisa won the speed drinking competition by a landslide. Good times had by all.

Wednesday, August 22, 2012

Jeju

Jeju is an island off the southwestern coast of Korea. It's often referred to as the 'Hawaii of Korea' and it is easy to see why. It contains Korea's tallest mountain, Halla, volcanoes, caves, and a plethora of beaches. I chose to spend my one week vacation here in July. It was the hottest week of the summer, and I spent most of the trip drenched in sweat...but it was still pretty awesome. I spent the first part of the trip in the southern part of the island near Seogwipo and the latter part in the north near Jeju City. I traveled to Jeju alone, but I wasn't alone for long. I met many other travelers.


     

 Seogwipo Area Waterfalls

 

We had a bit of trouble finding the Olle trail, a series of trails that follow the coast (for the most part) all the way around the island, but we located it eventually. It led us to the first and smallest waterfall. The waterfall fell into the sea and was small enough that you could shower below it.




Can you see the ajumma? She is wearing full rain gear under the waterfall and letting the water message her back.
 






We hiked along the Olle trail and were treated to gorgeous views of the coastline.




The trail led us to Jeonhbang Waterfall, which was bigger and also dropped directly into the ocean. The wind was blowing and when you stood within 10 feet you were refreshed with a cool mist from the waterfall.





Along the hike we came upon a small garden blossoming with beautiful flowers.




We wound up taking a taxi to the Cheonjiyeon waterfall as we were getting burned no matter how much sun block we put on. To get to this waterfall you had to walk over a bridge(grr!) and below there were fish that are bigger than my torso!
 
 
 
 

 
We ended the day at Jungman beach where we got in trouble for not swimming in the roped in area. A lot of Koreans can't swim so the designated swimming area was sworming with tubes and vairous floatables. We didn't stay long as they were charging 20,000 won for beach chairs and 10,000 for umbrellas.
 
That night our hostel host came to the porch where we were all hanging out and said 'cold swimming, beer, let's go'. So without knowing exactly what we were getting into we all changed into our swimsuits, piled into the host's van, stopped at the 'supermarket' (aka 7/11), stocked up on beer, and went to the sea. It was a really cool swimming spot. There was a small ice-cold fresh water swimming hole that flowed into the ocean. Even when we were swimming in the ocean, we cold still feel cold fresh water drafts. Before we left, we were told to wash up in the fresh water pool because it was too late to shower when we got back. Another girl and I were the only ones who were able to stay in the fresh water for more than a few seconds. I found the cold water to be refreshing and it did amazing things for my throbbing injured foot.
 

Manjanggul and Gimyeong Maze

The next day my new buddies and I headed out to the east side of the island to see Manjanggul which is apparently the world's longest system of lava tube caves. They're 13.4 km long but it only took about 40 minutes to walk through them. The caves are dimly lit and cool, providing a much welcomed break from the hot humidity outside. You can't tell but we are standing in front of a 7m lava pillar.


Nearby is Gimyeong maze, a hedge maze created and owned by an American expat. Getting lost in the maze was SOO much fun. It made me feel like I was in the Triwizard Tournament from the Goblet of Fire--- and what's more? The people I was with knew and appreciated the reference! We did, or course, eventually find our way out and rang the bell to signify our success.



My first real Irish coffee, made by a real Irishman. There is a scientic process to creating the perfect Irish coffee, so I learned. First, heat a glass coffee mug. Then add one spoonful of brown sugar, add a shot of coffee and dissolve the sugar, add a shot of Jameson, then pour more coffee until it's 3/4 full. Shake whipping cream vigourously. Pour the cream over a spoon so it sits on top of the coffee. Ta-dah, you now have the perfect Irish coffee. And I must say it was delicious--and I don't even like whiskey.

 
 

Saesom Galbi

I had an epic fail of a day in which I tried my darndest to go parasailing, but to no avail. I even got lost on the way back from my unsuccessful outing just to rub it in. Nonetheless, the evening proved to be a treat. We all went out to the famous black pork restaurant that night to eat and it was amazing. The server brings the meat and you cook it yourself on the grill at the table (pretty common in Korea). When it's finished you add all the yummy side dishes and/or sauces, wrap it in lettuce, and devour it. We also played some soju drinking games that I'd never played before...and I lost almost every round.
 


 
Loveland

Korea is not the place you'd expect to find an erotic theme park, but lo and behold Loveland. There are over 100 different sculptures in the park and diaramas in the exhibits. It was certainly an entertaining way to spend the afternoon. It's a bit strange to be surrounded by ajummas and ajashis while taking goofy pictures with these statues.
 
 
 


 

Dragon Rock and Dino Land




2012 is the year of the black dragon and so why not go see the black dragon rock? The black dragon symbolizes hope and bravery. It's good luck to make a wish.


 

Because it was raining, we decided to go to the dinosaur museum...however, the museum was outside.

Hookah and Brewery

We dried off at Bagdad Cafe where we ate delicious Indian food, drank chai tea, and shared a hookah.







We finished the night at Boris Brewery where we drank authentic German beer and played mafia. Mafia is a great card game in which you must figure out who the mafia is before you die.


Seongsan Ilchulbong

Seongsan Ilchulbonmg also known as Sunrise Peak is an extinct volcano on the eastern most part of Jeju. The hour and half bus ride followed the coast and was quite beautiful. Seongsan itself is a quaint little town almost completely surrounded by water.





The sun was blaring down so it took me awhile to cimb the stairs to the summit, especially with my injured foot. When I reached the top, I was rewarded with a remarkable view of the sea, one of the town, one of the crater, and another of the small black sand beach next to it.

Afterwards, I walked down to the black sand beach and happened to catch the demonstration of the Haenyeo. The Haeynyeo are Korean ajummas who free dive. They put on wetsuits and goggles, but don't use oxygen tanks. They can dive up to 20 meters and hold their breath for 2 minutes. They catch any sea creatures they can and bring back a lot of seaweed. I ate this freshly caught sea urchin (I think) for lunch. It was very salty and a bit chewy.